HELP!! CMM errors out and sometimes kicks out during program

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  • HELP!! CMM errors out and sometimes kicks out during program

    When running a program sometimes the CMM will just error out saying movement interrupted, and sometimes evens go as far as kicking the CMM out and i have to do a machine start again and get it running again. It will have not hit anything on any of these occasions. Sometimes the red light will go out and i tap my build i have on the head and it comes back on. I have a ph10 with a 50mm extension and then a tp20 body and module, medium force, 20mm extension and use either a 2 by 20 or 1.5 by 20 for most all of my programs. I have been using the same build for a long time and just recently had this start to happen. This is a pain when i run longer programs and before i could start it and walk away to work on something else, but now i have to babysit the CMM in case it stops. I have cleaned all the scales, i replaced both filters in the back, i took my build apart and cleaned everything with the renishaw clay, I have also contacted hexagon and done the debug file and sent that on to them. They are at the point of wanting to spend lots of money to come look at it. I am wondering if anyone knows if it could be my TP20 body or module that is bad, or does it sound like something more? I know modules and bodies are around 1,000 each ball park and service call is almost 2000. Thanks for any imput.

  • #2
    Never had a TP20 (just tp200s) but if the red light returns after a tap on your build, seems to me it would point the finger at your TP20 or module. Is it only with a certain module? How old is your TP20?
    Are you the only one running the CMM, or is it possible someone crashed it and said nothing? Also wouldn't hurt to check for a loose connexion in your PH10.
    my 2ยข and good luck!

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    • danthecmmman
      danthecmmman commented
      Editing a comment
      only really use the 1 module, my other medium force, the red light won't come on. Could it be the module body though? The newer TP20 is about 5 years old and the older one is at least 8 years, i've been running CMM for 8 years, the probe module has never been replaced since i've been in here. for the price of hexagon service i could get a probe body and module pretty much, i would just hate to find out its something else, but if its not, to have hexagon come out and say thats all it is, and then have to spend almost 3500 between service call and new module parts......

  • #3
    From what you describe it does sound like the TP20 module. I had the same thing happen a few months ago on an ageing machine where the probe would keep 'sticking' and I would have to tap it 'free'.

    You can get a part exchange on a new TP20 module from Renishaw if your current/old TP20 is no older than 10 years I believe. That would save a few pennies. However it is quite an important part of the CMM and I would say it needs replacing.

    Would be a lot better if you had another to try out first just to check that it is indeed the TP20 which is faulty. But without spare parts it is quite hard to diagnose problems.

    Comment


    • danthecmmman
      danthecmmman commented
      Editing a comment
      You think it is the module or the body? I have replaced the module 1 time in the 8 years I've been running the CMM, the probe body has never been replaced since I have been in here

  • #4
    Start with cleaning the connections, both for the magnetic module and the connection between TP20/PH. You should have some cleaning putty in the box that the TP20 came in.
    PC-DMIS CAD++ 2o18 R1 SP1

    Comment


    • danthecmmman
      danthecmmman commented
      Editing a comment
      I have cleaned everything, i have taken apart many times and used the putty.

  • #5
    I had a couple TP20s that were pronounced dead, when I first started here, and when I attached them, the red light continued to blink like it wasn't there. I have the Tesastar, can't remember if the PH10 blinked or just went out. Anyway I took my scribe and ever so lightly pushed down the 2 gold post, NOT TO APPLY TO MUCH PRESSURE, but enough just to move them down a TAD. Those 2 modules have been working ever since, no problems. Do this only if you have exhausted all other leads. Some people wouldn't recommend this, but if your already to the point of replacement, it wont hurt to try.

    IMG_0242.JPG$_57[1].png
    Last edited by KIRBSTER269; 04-16-2018, 12:58 PM.
    (In Memory of my Loving wife, "Ronda" who I lost March 7, 2016. I love you baby.)
    They say "Nobody's Perfect." I must be Nobody.

    Comment


    • DJAMS
      DJAMS commented
      Editing a comment
      We've also salvaged one this way.

  • #6
    You can RBE the TP20 Modules here for $665 each. They have an expected lifespan of about 2million hits from what I recall off the top of the noggin'.
    https://cmmtechnology.com/product/tp20-a-1371-0275-rbe/

    Comment


    • #7
      Originally posted by KIRBSTER269 View Post
      I had a couple TP20s that were pronounced dead, when I first started here, and when I attached them, the red light continued to blink like it wasn't there. I have the Tesastar, can't remember if the PH10 blinked or just went out. Anyway I took my scribe and ever so lightly pushed down the 2 gold post, NOT TO APPLY TO MUCH PRESSURE, but enough just to move them down a TAD. Those 2 modules have been working ever since, no problems. Do this only if you have exhausted all other leads. Some people wouldn't recommend this, but if your already to the point of replacement, it wont hurt to try.

      IMG_0242.JPG$_57[1].png
      OR, just push that end down flat on the CMM table. They should be flush with the end of the module.
      sigpic
      Originally posted by AndersI
      I've got one from September 2006 (bug ticket) which has finally been fixed in 2013.

      Comment


      • #8
        I had a stutter and error with phantom movements. It was the jog box, and they had to replace it twice.

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        • #9
          I've used your same setup (PH10 with TP20, etc) and have seen similar behavior. I've ended up with new TP20's. The TP20 can die a violent death (crash) or it can simply die of old age. When it dies of old age, I've seen it flicker out of existence (sometimes works, sometimes not) and it is hard to accept that an old friend is on his way out. Like someone said - you should be able to return the 'dead' unit and get a discount on a new unit. If it's only the one unit giving you problems, then it may be worth your while to assume it is dead (o dying) and replace it, rather than pay for a tech to go out there (for a LOT more $$$) to tell you the same thing. Good luck.

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          • #10
            Is there anyway to determine if it is the probe body or the module that is bad?

            Comment


            • bigtallanddopey
              bigtallanddopey commented
              Editing a comment
              swap out with a different module, other than that, not really.

          • #11
            Are you sure your probe file isn't corrupt?
            Does this happen with all probe files?

            Comment


            • danthecmmman
              danthecmmman commented
              Editing a comment
              How would you know, or go about checking? It doesn't matter what tips i put on it still does it

            • BKulpa
              BKulpa commented
              Editing a comment
              Create a new probe file with a completely different name and test the machine.
              I had a probe file go corrupt and was convinced that the machine had a bad X axis motor.
              Moved program and probe file to a different machine and the problem went with it, then we knew.

          • #12
            danthecmmman, do you have multiple probe modules available to you? Do all of the modules have the same issue? if so, then work your way up. Order a new probe body (or RBE). If that doesn't work, you are pretty much out of options on your own, and stuck getting hexagon involved.

            The "NJB" Jogbox is amazing. if it is a jogbox, be sure to get the NON-LCD screen jogbox... The basic-looking one, with the turnknob for speed control and 2 chrome buttons. the LCD-screen one sucks. it's bulky, heavy, hard to see at an angle, not very touch-sensitive...
            Last edited by louisd; 04-19-2018, 10:42 AM.

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            • #13
              Would trying a new probe body be the best place to start? seeing it seems to do this even with a different module, as long as my other module is still good?

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